The crop factor may make it harder, but 5D's are too expensive to consider "tester" bodies non-i bodies are cheap. If I was working on a Sigma 35mm Canon EF, I'd want to keep it where it is but also have my T3 test dSLR ready to check it. Once you get the adjustment wrong, you will not get it back easily unless you know how. However if in doubt, have a shop do the repair. Ideal for a wide range of photo and video applications including landscapes, portraits, street photography, architecture, and events, the 18-50mm f/2.8 DC DN Contemporary Lens from Sigma is a small, light. Be careful not to adjust the front element in error as the body locks the adjustment in place on old Sigmas, unless you know how to re-adjust it! 27-75mm (35mm Equivalent) Aperture Range: f/2.8 to f/22. If neither of those tricks work, you need to remove the lens body and check the gearing inside. If it sticks on a Canon, you HAVE to take the lens apart. On Cannon EF lenses, you need to put it in MF mode and move it around or take the lens apart to adjust it (and remove the AF/MF switch so it moves the AF gears around). If it's more severe, you may need to remove the lens mount from the lens, then move it around to loosen it. On the Minolta variants, the trick that often works is to use a flathead to "unstick" the gears if it's minor. I think I've done something similar on the Minolta/Sony "A mount" Sigmas, so this may or may not work.
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